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By JOHN GAUNTNER
Nara Prefecture can easily be considered the historical heartland of sake. Far more than any other prefecture, historically and culturally, Nara is an
extremely significant sake-brewing locale.
During the eighth century, the city of Nara was still the capital of Japan. In 689, the Imperial Palace established a brewing department within its walls called
sake no kami. It is technically difficult to pinpoint just when sake became sake. But, by this time, it was certainly close to what we know today.
Eventually sake brewing moved from the palace to temples
and shrines, and then again to the common folk. So technically advanced was the sake of Nara that even into the Muromachi Period (1392-1573) the term Nara-zake signified great sake.
Nara is also the
location of Omiwa Shrine, said to be the oldest Shinto shrine in Japan. Enshrined here is the god of sake brewing. The sugi (Japanese cedar) trees on the grounds of this shrine are used to make saka-bayashi, the
green or brown globes seen hung at sake-related establishments all over Japan.
Also, each year on Nov. 14, brewery owners and toji (chief brewers) from the region gather for the Sake Matsuri, to pray for
a safe and successful brewing season. As Nara is close to both the brewing centers of Fushimi (Kyoto) and Nada (Kobe), this has historically been a very important event.
There are currently just over 50
breweries in Nara. Almost all are very small brewers. Overall, the sake from Nara is slightly soft and light, neither too sweet nor too dry, yet with plenty of flavor and character. Although not always easy to
find outside of Nara, some names to look for include Yamatsuru, wonderful Tama no Tsuyu, the excellent Hanatomoe, Yatagarasu and Hyakurakumon.
Because Nara is so close to the two brewing centers mentioned
above, until recently many of the small makers engaged in oke-uri, or "tank selling," i.e. brewing sake for other large breweries. This practice has died down recently, both for economic reasons (not
as much nihonshu is being consumed) and for reasons of pride.
Ume no Yado is another Nara sake that boasts the country's only non-Japanese sake brewer, Philip Harper. The author of a great guide to
sake called "The Insider's Guide to Sake" (Kodansha), this insider has been brewing there for the better part of a decade, and is indeed a bona fide craftsman. Their sake has long been one of my
favorites.
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Check out the current issue of the magazine Dancyu, on newsstands now. A gourmet magazine with great glossy photos, Dancyu has put out an issue focusing on nihonshu each March
for the past three years. In this year's edition, there are several articles on a myriad of sake-related topics. What sake to look for, new taste profiles, and places to drink it and buy it all over Japan
are covered.
There are also articles on several interesting sake breweries and what makes them unique, plus coverage of peripheral topics such as the work of a photographer whose work focuses on the sake
world. The most useful part is that every sake mentioned is followed by an indication of where you can buy it. At 860 yen, it is a bit more expensive than most monthlies, but you'll want to hang on to
it.
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Harushika (Nara Prefecture)
"Cho Karakuchi" junmai-shu
Nihonshu-do: +12
Acidity: 1.6
Seimai-buai: 58 percent
Harushika means "spring
deer," and the sake takes its name from the countless tame deer that roam the park in the capital city. "Cho Karakuchi" means super dry, and dry it is. But more than simply being bone-dry, there
is a pervading softness and clean background to the flavor, with a very light fragrance of nuts and fruit.
You can sign up for a free sake-related e-mail newsletter at www.sake-world.com. Also, to be
put on a contact list for sake-related events, e-mail sakeguy@gol.com or fax your name and address to (0467) 23-6895.
The Japan Times: Feb. 22, 2001
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