Search Results for: aged sake

Significance of Shinpaku

By John Gauntner | October 21, 2016 - 7:18 pm |October 18, 2016 Uncategorized

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The main raw materials of sake are rice and water, and rice is the only fermentable material used in its production. And just as the grapes used to make good wine are significantly different from those bought at the supermarket, the rice used to make premium sake is significantly different from that which we find sitting under the fish in sushi, or in bowls in meals.

In truth, most sake – perhaps 75 percent of all produced – is actually made from regular table rice. And a lot of this is perfectly tasty sake. But when we meander into the realm of premium sake, especially ginjo, almost always it is made with proper sake rice, which is significantly different from regular table rice.

While there are many ways that sake rice differs from other types (size of the stalk, size of the grains, more starch, less fat and protein), the most talked about of them is surely the presence of a shinpaku.

In proper sake rice, the higher-than-normal starch content is mostly concentrated in the center of the grains. Why is this so heart-warmingly special? Because we want to get at the starch, which will be converted to sugar and then into alcohol. But we don’t want the fat and protein, which would lead to off-flavors and contribute rough elements to the sake. So with the starch neatly concentrated in the center, all we need to do is to mill away more and more of the outside of the grain, and by doing that we remove the fat and protein and leave only the starchy goodies behind.

That packet of starch in the center is called the shinpaku. The word itself is written with the characters for “heart” and “white,” and not surprisingly, when one looks at sake rice, you can clearly see that the heart of the grain is an opaque white, with everything around that being somewhat translucent. In regular rice, however, the color is uniform throughout since the starch, fat and protein are more mixed up and uniformly distributed.

Why does sake rice have the starch in the center, and fat and protein around that? Part of it is just the nature of those strains. But it also has to do with climate and growing conditions. Regions with hot days and cold nights are best for sake rice production, as the cold nights coerce the plant to send the starch to the center of the grains. In “bad years” for rice, seasons being too hot or too cold, too wet or too dry, or when the night and day temperatures had less variance, fewer grains will have a decent shinpaku.

What is interesting is that it is not the starch itself that makes the center of the grains white. What happens is that the starch molecules are round at the ends, and as they rush to get to the middle they don’t interlock well, and they leave tiny air pockets between their ends. These diffuse light passing through, giving the opaque appearance we see.

Beyond different varieties or strains of rice, within each type there are grades based upon how well it was grown. This is a function of locale, climate, and skill of the producer. And one of the big points of assessment is the percentage of grains with a visible shinpaku. This is also one of the standards in the official assessment of sake rice versus table rice in general.

There are many more factors beyond the shinpaku and its size that are involved in qualifying good sake rice. But the shinpaku is the most visible, if not the most talked about.

Note, too, that one can make decent-to-good sake from regular rice. It takes a good toji and good tools, but just a few of the many examples of table rice from which decent sake is brewed are Koshihikari, Sasanishiki, the illustrious Kame no O. So one can indeed make decent sake from table rice. It’s just easier to do so with real sake rice.

Finally, the question often arises, if a brewer is using table rice, why do they bother to mill down to 70, 60 or even 50 percent of the original size? If table rice has no shinpaku, isn’t that meaningless and wasteful?

The answer lies in the fact that in truth, all rice to some degree has more starch in the center and more fat and protein near the surface, whether or not this is manifested in a visible shinpaku. It is just that this is all more distinct in sake rice; much more starch is in the center, and much more of the fat and protein is near the outside of the grains.

So more milling will have a positive effect on table rice as well when it is used in sake brewing, just not as pronounced as with good sake rice. As usual with sake-related things, it’s all a tad vague.

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Sake Professional Course
in Japan

Tuesday, January 10 ~ Saturday, January 14, 2017
Recognized by the Sake Education Council

No sake stone remains left unturned

“Quite simply, the best and most thorough sake education on the planet.”

From Tuesday, January 10 to Saturday, January 14, I will hold the 14th running (and 38th overall) of the Sake Professional Course in Japan.

The Sake Professional Course in Japan is far and away the best possible sake education in existence. Three days of lecture and tasting, each evening capped off with dinner and fine, fine sake, followed by two days spent visiting four sake breweries of different size and scale – punctuated again with fine sake and a great meal each evening make this course as comprehensive as it could be. If you are serious about sake, and especially about working with sake, there is no other course for you; this is it. Satisfaction is guaranteed.

The course is recognized by the not-for-profit organization The Sake Education Council, and those that complete it will be qualified to take the exam for Certified Sake Specialist, which will be offered near the end of the week.

The course will be held from the morning of Tuesday, January 10 to the evening of Saturday, January 14,2017, and will be focused in Tokyo, but with a two- day excursion to the Osaka – Kyoto – Kobe area to visit four sake breweries of various scale. Geared toward professionals, but open to anyone with an interest in sake, this course will begin with the basics, and will provide the environment for a focused, intense, and concerted training period. It will consist of classroom sessions on all things sake-related, followed by relevant tasting sessions, four sake brewery visits, and exposure to countless brands and styles in several settings, both in comparison to other sake, and with food. Participants will stay together at hotels in Tokyo and Osaka. Lectures will take place in a comfortable classroom, and evening meals will be off-site at various sake- related establishments.

The goal of this course is that “no sake stone remains left unturned,” and the motto is “exceed expectations.”

During the three classroom days, we will discuss various aspects of sake and the sake world, including grades, production, rice, yeast, koji, water and more. Tastings specific to the just-discussed topics follow each lecture, thereby allowing participants to understand with their senses the theory just presented. Participants will not simply hear about differences based on rice types or yeast types, they will taste and smell them. Students will not only absorb technical data about yamahai, kimoto, nama genshu, aged sake and regionality, they will absorb the pertinent flavors and aromas within the related sake as well.

Food and sake, the state of the sake-brewing industry, the culture and history suffusing sake are regionality are just a few more of the wide range of topics to be covered. Every conceivable sake-related topic will be touched upon, and each lecture will be complimented and augmented by a relevant tasting session.

Participants will also be presented with a certificate of completion at the end of the course.

The Tokyo classroom venue is the Japan Sake and Shochu Producers Association in the Shimbashi area.

The cost for this five-day educational experience is ¥190,000. This includes all instruction and materials, as well as evening meals with plenty of sake each night. Other meals, transportation to and from as well as within Japan, and hotel are not included in the tuition. To make a reservation or if you have any questions at all, please send an email to John Gauntner at sakeguy@gol.com .

For more information, a downloadable pdf announcement and a view of the daily syllabus, please go here . Testimonials from past participants can be found here as well.

Happy New (Brewing) Year! 28BY has begun.

By John Gauntner | July 18, 2016 - 3:22 am |July 16, 2016 Uncategorized

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Happy New Year! Happy New “Brewing” Year that is! Welcome to 28BY, or “The Year Heisei 28 Brewing Year.”

We have calendar years that run from January 1 to December 31. And we have fiscal years that are more variable, but tend to run from April 1 of one year until March 31 of the next, especially in Japan. And, most relevant to us, we have Brewing Year, or Jozo Nendo, which runs from July 1 of one year until June 30 of the next. Here’s an explanation of why that exist as it does.

First of all, while Japan does relate to the fact that this is 2016, officially and traditionally it is called Heisei 28, or the 28th year of the era of Heisei. So to go from Heisei to western years, subtract 12 – this will work well most of the time. A bit of a mathematical hassle, especially when drinking, but not an insurmountable obstacle.

Sake brewing starts in the fall of one year and ends in the spring of the next. So, if a sake were labeled only as year Heisei 27 (2015), it would be brewed in one given season if it were January of 2015, but be a completely different brewing season – with different rice, weather, and possibly even more – if it were October 2015. This difference could be likened to two totally different vintages in the wine world. So, we need a bit more detail.

This point did not escape the clever folks in the brewing industry who rice ready for harvest

needed a way to speak about the sake of one season, unencumbered by trivial details like how the rest of the world measures time. It also was a necessity from the viewpoint of the folks at the ministry of taxation, who also needed a more efficient way to tax kura on their output.

And so long ago they came up with the concept of the “Brewing Year,” or BY. Just like fiscal years can differ from calendar years, in Japan the Brewing Year runs from July 1 to June 30th of the following year. This, then, encompasses the entire brewing season of every brewer in the country in one clean 12-month period.

So, BY27 ran from July 1 2015 until June 30 2016. And sake brewed last fall and into this spring would be considered part of BY27. And, BY27 and we have entered into BY28. So, even though calendar year 28 (read: 2016) is half over, we just now started BY28.

Why do they use July? Why not October 1 (Sake Day!) or another day in the fall when brewing begins? Well, consider that there are various scales of operation. A tiny brewery might begin in November and finish in February. More common is starting in October and finishing in April. A very large brewer might start as early as August and run until the next June. And there are even one or two that brew all twelve months of the year.

Since production is focused on the coldest month of the year, January or so, brewing operations will expand in both directions from that point. So by starting in July and running to June, the industry can capture a single brewing season for all brewers, big or small. While it ain’t rocket science, it is at least somewhat clever.

How does this help us? Well, when we see a sake labeled, for example, 26BY, you know that since Heisei 26 is 2014, this sake was brewed in the season beginning in the fall of 2014, and running into the spring of 2015.
That would make it about a year to a year and a half since being brewed, just about right for much sake, if young by some mature sake standards.

Note, this is not on all bottles. It is common to talk about it with producers and other sake adherents, but the only time it is actually printed on a label is when the sake has been aged deliberately, and the brewer wants you to know just how long it has been aged. It is indispensable in those situations, since the date that must be printed in tiny characters in the corner of the label legally indicates about when it was shipped from the brewery, and that may not let us know just how long it was aged before that.

Again, since aged sake is such a small drop in the bucket, you will not see this so commonly. But if and when you see such mysterious nomenclature, you will know precisely how old your sake is.

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Interested in sake? Check out my most recent book, Sake Confidential.

SPC Syllabus

Sake Professional Course Live Online Syllabus
Syllabus and Daily Schedule
“No Sake Stone Remains Left Unturned!”

Here is the syllabus for the Sake Professional Course Live Online programs, held on five consecutive weekend days.

Day I
Sake Basics, Sake Types, Terms found on Sake Labels
Day II
Sake Brewing, Rice Types, Yeast Types, Water, Koji
Day III
Chemistry: nihonshu-do, acidity; Yamahai and Kimoto, Nama-zake (unpasteurized sake), Pressing Methods.
Day IV
Aging and maturity. Non-standard sake types like nigori, low alcohol sake, sparkling sake, red sake, & taruzake. Sake competitions. Vessels / Glassware, Temperature, Toji Guilds, Odds and Ends.
Day V
Sake Regionality, Sake & Food, History, The State of the Sake Industry.
Online Testing Day Testing is held online on the Saturday following the last day of the course.

Below is the general syllabus and flow and schedule of the three-day program. This is also the schedule for the first three days of the Japan-based five-day program, with the remaining two days being brewery visits.

Day I
9:00 – 12:00 Welcome, Orientation, Sake Basics, Sake Types, Reading Labels
Tasting I: typical representatives of various grades, milling rates
1:00 – 3:00 Sake Production
3:00 – 5:00 Rice Types, Yeast Types
Tasting II: Rice types, Yeast types

Day II
9:00 to 12:00 Water, Koji, Sake Chemistry: nihonshu-do, acidity, et cetera. Yamahai and Kimoto, Nama-zake and its variations.
Tasting III: Yamahai and Kimoto, Nama-zake.
12:00 to 1:00 Lunch
1:00 – 5:00 Pressing methods. Aging, Maturity and Vintage (or the lack thereof), Nigori, Low Alcohol Sake, Sparkling Sake, Red Sake, Toji guilds, Temperature, Vessels, Contests
Tasting IV: Nama-zake, shinshu et al, aged sake, mature sake, over the hill sake, low alcohol sake, sparkling sake, red sake. One sake in several vessels, warm sake.

Day III
9:00 – 12:00 Regionality, Sake and Food, State of the Industry, Q&A
12:00- 1:00 Lunch
Tasting V: Typical Regional Representatives.
1:00 – 3:00 Break
3:00 – 5:00 Exam

In Japan, the course continues with Day IV and Day V, which are brewery visits.

Shochu and Awamori

What is Shochu?

Shochu is Japan’s other indigenous alcoholic beverage, but unlike sake, shochu is distilled. It is also made from one of several raw materials. The alcoholic content is usually 25%, although sometimes it can be as high as 42% or more.

The word “sake” in Japan can actually refer to all alcoholic beverages in general, although it most often refers to the wine-like rice brew so tightly associated with that word overseas. But in some parts of Japan, most notably the far western and southern regions, the word sake is understood to refer to a totally different alcoholic beverage, also indigenous to Japan, but distilled and not brewed: shochu.

Like almost all such beverages throughout the world, shochu developed as it did as an expression of region, especially climate, cuisine and available raw materials. Perhaps the factor most affecting the development of shochu is the weather. The island of Kyushu and the western part of the island of Honshu are significantly warmer than the rest of Japan.

Brewing sake calls for relatively lower temperatures, but shochu can be distilled in these warmer regions. Also, the higher alcohol content and drier feel is more appealing to many in milder climates.

Unlike many other beverages, shochu is made from one of several raw materials. These include sweet potato, and shochu made from these is called “imo-jochu.” Other materials commonly used include from rice, soba (buckwheat), and barley. There is even one island where there a few places that make shochu from brown sugar. It can also be made from more obscure things like chestnuts and other grains.

And, each of these raw materials gives a very, very distinct flavor and aroma profile to the final sake. These profiles run the gamut from smooth and light (rice) to peaty, earthy and strong (potato). Indeed, each of these raw materials lends a unique flavor in much the same way that the peat and barley of each region in Scotland determine the character of the final scotch whiskey.

There are, in fact, many parallels between shochu and scotch, regional distinction based on local ingredients being only one of them.

Another parallel to scotch can be found in the distillation methods. There are basically two main methods of distillation. The older method – it has been around since the 14th century or so – involves a single round of distillation only, and is made using only one raw material. Known as Otsu-rui (Type B – in an admittedly loose translation) or Honkaku (“the real thing”) shochu, this type will more often reflect the idiosyncrasies of the original raw material. In this sense, it can be likened to single malt scotches.

The second method is one in which the shochu is goes through several distillations, one right after another. It is often made with several of the commonly used raw materials. Known as Kou-rui (Type A, in the same admittedly loose translation) shochu, this method has only been around since 1911, although it only became a legal classification in 1949. With a bit of a stretch, this kind of shochu is similar to much blended scotch. In other words, it is much smoother, ideal for mixing in cocktails, and with much less … well, character.

Beyond these variables, the type of koji mold (used to create sugar from the starch of the raw materials during the fermentation step that necessarily takes place before distillation) can be one of three, (yellow koji, as is used with sake, white koji and black koji) and the distillation itself can take place at either atmospheric pressure or at a forced lower pressure. These parameters too naturally affect the style of the final product.

Kou-rui shochu, of which much more is produced by far, is quite versatile. As it is lighter and cleaner, it lends itself well to use in mixed drinks. Perhaps its most ubiquitous manifestation is the popular “chu-hi,” a shochu hi-ball made using a plethora of different fruit flavors and sold in single-serving cans or mixed fresh at bars and pubs. (Since it is supposedly cleaner by virtue of having been repeatedly distilled, it is said by some to give less of a hangover, although there is no evidence to truly back this up.)

Otsu-rui shochu, the “real thing” honkaku-shochu, on the other hand, has a more artisan, hand crafted appeal associated with it. The nature of the raw material can really come through, and be it soba, rice, barley, or chestnuts, each has its fans and foes. This is especially true when it has been distilled at atmospheric pressure, not forced lower pressure.

Perhaps the most interesting – and illustrious – of all shochu are those made from the sweet potatoes of Kagoshima Prefecture: imo-jochu. While the flavors can be heavier and more earthy than shochu made from other starches, Kagoshima imo-jochu offers complexity and fullness of flavor that makes it quite enjoyable to many a connoisseur.

Honkaku “the real thing” shochu is usually enjoyed straight, on the rocks, or with a splash of water. Another way to enjoy either type of shochu is known as “oyu-wari,” which is simply mixing it with a bit of hot water. This both backs the alcohol off a bit, releases flavor and aroma, and warms the body to the very core. Unbeatable in winter, for sure. From experience, I can guarantee it will warm you from the core outward.

Shochu overall is enjoying massive popularity these days in Japan. Over the last couple of years, both beer and sake consumption have continued to drop, where as shochu has actually increased.

While shochu has its roots in either China or Korea, probably having come across during trading, the traditional home of shochu in Japan is Kagoshima, on the island of Kyushu. In fact, the first usage of the term shochu appeared in graffiti written by a carpenter dated 1559 in a shrine in the city of Oguchi in Kagoshima.

Kagoshima is rightfully proud of their shochu heritage. It is the only prefecture in Japan that brews absolutely no sake, but only produces shochu. If you ask for sake down there, expect and enjoy the local sweet-potato distillate.

The difference between soju and shochu

Korea also makes shochu, although it is called soju in Korean. And, Korean producers got to the US with it first. As such, in US legalese, the product is known as shochu. As far as I know, all Japanese shochu will be legally referred to as soju in the US. It is, in essence, the same thing. Judge it on its flavor, not its label.

What is Awamori?

Awamori is an alcoholic beverage indigenous to and unique to Okinawa. made from rice, however, it is distilled from rice, not brewed. The traditions and methods of Awamori originally came in from Thailand (although with influences from the south, from Indonesia and Taiwan, and from the north, from China and Korea it is said), and awamori was actually the very first distilled beverage in what is now Japan.

Awamori is made only in Japan’s southern most prefecture, the tropical island group of Okinawa. Currently, there are but 47 makers of this unique, earthy beverage, although awamori is enjoying a boom right now, and business is brisk. Due to the influence of the US presence from WWII until 1972, for decades the drink of choice in Okinawa was scotch or whiskey. Now, however, this erstwhile gift to the Shogun of Japan has resumed its rightful place as a very popular sipping beverage in its own land.

There are quite a few ways in which awamori is unique. The pre-distillation ferment is made in such away that there is plenty of citric acid created, which allows awamori to be made all year round in this hot climat. It is distilled once, and afterwards the alcohol content is lowered with water to about 25 to 30 percent, although some awamori is found at 43 percent alcohol.

There are several theories on the origins of the word awamori itself. “Awa” means foam and “mori” can mean to rise up. One theory then is that the foam would rise in great swaths during per-distillation fermentation. Another is that long ago the level of alcohol was measured by pouring the awamori from a height of an outstretched arm into a small cup, and measuring how much foam rose in the cup. Yet a third, less romantic, states that this name was forced upon the Ryukyu distillers by the Satsuma clan of Kagoshima to be sure that it would not be confused with their beloved shochu.

Etymological considerations aside, as mentioned above, awamori is a beverage distilled from rice. It differs from sake, mainland Japan’s indigenous drink, in that sake is brewed, not distilled. Also, sake is made with short-grain Japonica rice, whereas awamori is made using long-grain indica rice that is imported from Thailand (even today). It differs from shochu, Japan’s other distilled beverage, (although much shochu is made from materials other than rice) in several ways, including process variations, as well as the type of koji mold (used for saccharification) and yeast.

A word worth remembering when shopping for awamori is “kusu.” Kusu is aged awamori. It is written with the same characters as the Japanese word koshu, which refers to aged sake, the pronunciation is unique to Awamori and Okinawa.

Awamori was meant to be aged, and aged for a long time. Like many beverages distilled from grains, aging mellows the flavor and rounds out the edges. While awamori aged ten years can be wonderful, it becomes even more enjoyable at 20 or 25 years. (One of the challenges to the awamori industry is how to remain financially viable while they wait on the returns of their long-term investment.)

But the traditional method of aging awamori, known as “shitsugi,” is very curious and does not boast a high degree of repeatability. To explain it, we need to bear in mind that hundreds of years ago, when the Ryukyu kingdom was in its heyday, folks would have several lidded urns of awamori lined up outside the house. The urn containing the oldest awamori was closest to the door, with each urn having successively younger product inside.

When a drink was ladled out from the first urn, the amount taken was then replaced with awamori from the second urn. This in turn was refilled from the third urn and so on. Freshly distilled stuff was placed into the last urn when ready. This led to each urn having inside of it an indeterminable blend of awamori of different degrees of aging. So although kusu refers to aged awamori, traditionally it was not really possible to be any more precise than that.

Modern times, laws, and consumer guidelines call for a bit more accuracy, and currently for a bottle of awamori to have kusu on the label, at least 51% of the contents must have been aged at least three years. While this allows for the traditional shitsugi method of aging, it still means that 49% of it could be freshly distilled stuff. So, while it may be a bit harder to find and a tad more expensive, it is worth it to search for 100% kusu of ten years or more. It will be clearly written as such on the bottle, i.e. “100% aged 10 years,” or something to that effect. Having said that, it is very difficult to find something like a bottle of kusu of which 100% has been aged 25 years.

When the Ryukyu kingdom was in its prime, the best kusu was served at only the most special of occasions. It was presented in very small thimble-sized cups, called “saka-jiki ,” holding perhaps a tablespoon, that are dwarfed by the average “o-chokko” sake cup. These ae still used today in some situations. It was said that while wealthy people might entrust their money to others, they would always keep the keys to their awamori cellar with them.

SAKE CONFIDENTAL

Interested in learning more about sake?

Check out my book “Sake Confidential” on Amazon.

Sake Confidential is the perfect FAQ for beginners, experts, and sommeliers.

Indexed for easy reference with suggested brands and label photos. Includes:

Sake Secrets: junmai vs. non-junmai, namazake, aging, dry vs. sweet, ginjo, warm vs. chilled, nigori, water, yeast, rice, regionality
How the Industry Really Works: pricing, contests, distribution, glassware, milling, food pairing
The Brewer’s Art Revealed: koji-making, brewers’ guilds, grading

SAKE INDUSTRY NEWS

If you are interested in staying up to date with what is happening within the Sake Industry and also information on more advanced Sake topics then Sake Industry News is just for you!

Sake Industry News is a paid subscription newsletter that is sent on the first and 15th of each month. Get news from the sake industry in Japan – including trends, business news, changes and developments, and technical information on sake types and production methods that are well beyond the basics – sent right to your inbox. Subscribe here today!

Each issue will consist of four or five short stories culled from public news sources about the sake industry in Japan, as well as one or more slightly longer stories and observations by myself on trends, new developments, or changes within the sake industry in Japan.

Taxing Taxes of Olde: the now-defunct “Zoukokuzei”

By John Gauntner | November 16, 2013 - 12:18 pm |January 20, 2021 Uncategorized

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In a recent newsletter about aged sake, I read about how the system used to tax sake brewers that was in place from the late 1800s until just after WWII was one that indirectly but strongly discouraged brewers from even thinking about trying to age sake. While this system is long defunct, it left the industry with decades of catch-up self-education on the results of aging, yet at the same time shaped the sake we enjoy today.

In short, back then brewers had to pay tax to the government on sake as soon as it was pressed, in other words, as soon as the rice lees has been filtered away after fermentation was complete, i.e. as soon as it became proper sake. Note, it did not matter whether the stuff ever got sold. As soon as it came into existence, the government demanded its due taxes.

The problem was – especially back then – what if it went bad after that, or if a tank leaked or it got spilled. Too bad, intoned the Ministry of Taxation. And so ensued clandestine tactics.

In order to make sure that every taxable drop was accounted for, the government would measure everything at every stage. (They still do, more or less, today.) They operated on the basic assumption that brewers were fundamentally trying to avoid paying taxes. And so genmai (unmilled, “brown” rice), white (i.e. milled) rice, koji, liters of moto (yeast starter), and liters of moromi (fermenting mash) all had to be carefully measured and recorded for each batch.

After reading the article, I spoke to the author, a now semi-retired (one never really leaves the sake world!) former director of a large-ish, dignified and diverse brewery of some means. He explained the details of how things proceeded.

“Back then,” he began, “it was a game, really. Everyone was doing it!” His smile was laced with some embarrassment, much like a kid caught with his hand in the cookie jar, as he continued.

“In truth, we felt we had to – or at least had the right to – make up for what was sure to be at least some inevitable losses, be it from inadvertent spillage or leakage, sake going bad from incomplete pasteurization, or just other unexpected mishaps. We had to at least make up for what we were sure we would lose!”

So the brewers would try to hide part of the moromi, or hide the sake as it was being pressed, and went w-a-y out of their way to come up with creative ways of doing this. And of course, there were in fact occasionally incidences of the moto or moromi spilling or leaking. But it was hard to convince the tax man of the veracity of this.

They would have none of that nonsense, and would scour the kura looking for where it was being hidden. Never limiting their searches to the main brewing facilities, they would go into the living quarters of the kuramoto (the owning family) and poke around in closets and storage rooms, and if they did not find anything there, they would search for the unaccounted volumes in the homes of neighbors and relatives. It seems to have been quite the game!

The drag for the brewers was that, again, from time to time there were real accidents. The wooden tanks in use back then might have cracks, so that months after filling a tank with sake for maturation, they could open the tank and find it empty. Whoops! Or the wooden stopper at the bottom, if not properly inserted, might pop out and a whole tank’s worth of ambrosia could disappear in a couple of hours. Or warmer-than-expected temperatures could spoil a sake not yet pasteurized. Yet they could expect no redress from the tax man for this. Hence the perceived need to pre-emptively account for that via whatever means available to them.

And this is why the Zoukokuzei system was so hard on the brewers. Fortunately, the government is more reasonable these days, and brewers are now taxed on what they sell and when they sell it. And this has opened up brewers’ willingness to at least experiment with aging sake. We can at least understand their reticence of brewers long ago, since once they have paid taxes, if the aging thing did not go well, they were out a significant amount.

This seems to me to have affected sake as we enjoy it today. Very little sake is matured today, much less than might have been had brewers been permitted the leeway to experiment over the decades. As such, sake has developed in such a way that it is best enjoyed relatively young, albeit with some exceptions.

And I, for one, am OK with that.

The Start of a New BY

By John Gauntner | July 10, 2013 - 1:33 pm |January 20, 2021 Uncategorized

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Happy New (Brewing) Year! BY25 has begun.

While most sake is best young, sometimes sake is aged by the kura before being released. And sometimes, we can see an indication of the year in which it was brewed. This should make it all simpler – provided we know how to read that information. The problem stems from two points: one, Japan does not use the same dating system as the West, but rather a year-numbering system based on the reign of the current emperor, and two, a given sake brewing season stretches across two calendar years.
First of all, while Japan does relate to the fact that this is 2013, officially and traditionally it is called Heisei 25, or the 25th year of the era of Heisei. A bit of a mathematical hassle, especially when drinking, but not an insurmountable obstacle.

Next, sake brewing starts in the fall of one year and ends in the spring. So, if a sake were labeled only as year 25, we would not know if it was the season of Fall ’24 to Spring ’25, or Fall ’25 to Spring ’26. These are two different years as far as brewing is concerned, and can be likened to two totally different vintages in the wine world. So, we need a bit more detail.

This point did not escape the clever folks at the ministry of taxation, who also needed a more efficient way to tax kura on their output. And so long ago they came up with the concept of the “Brewing Year,” or BY. Just like fiscal years can differ from calendar years, in Japan the Brewing Year runs from July 1 to June 30th of the following year. This, then, encompasses the entire brewing season of every brewer in the country in one clean 12-month period.

So, BY24 (it might also appear 24BY) ran from July 1 2012 until June 30 2013. And sake brewed last fall and into this spring would be considered part of BY24. And, BY24 just ended a few days ago, when we entered into BY25. So, even though calendar year 25 (read: 2013) is half over, we just now started BY25.

A traditional white-walled sake brewery, or "sakagura"

Traditional Sakagura (sake brewery)

How does this help you? Well, when you see a sake labeled, for example, BY23, you know that since Heisei 25 is 2013, this sake was brewed in the season beginning in the fall of 2011, and running into the spring of 2012. That would make it about a year and a half to two years old; not at all odd for a sake of maturity and richness in style.

Again, since aged sake is such a small drop in the bucket, you will rarely come across this. But if and when you see such mysterious nomenclature, you will know precisely how old your sake is.

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Sake Professional Course Sake Pro Course NYC 2013

Kikizake-joko – Official Tasting Glasses

Dallas, Texas, August 8~10, 2013

The next Sake Professional Course will take place August 8-10, in conjunction with TEXSOM 2013 at the Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas in Irving, Texas

More about the seminar, its content and day-to-day schedule, can be found here.

The Sake Professional Course, with Sake Education Council-recognized Certified Sake Professional certification testing, is by far the most intensive, immersing, comprehensive sake educational program in existence. The three-day seminar leaves “no sake stone unturned.”

The tuition for the course is $825. Feel free to contact me directly at sakeguy@gol.com with any questions about the course, or to make a reservation.

Separated At Birth

By John Gauntner | November 22, 2012 - 9:49 am |January 20, 2021 Uncategorized

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I don’t always drink beer. But when I do, it’s usually Pilsner Urquell.

OK, that’s not true. It is usually from one of Japan’s quite passable large brewing companies. But without a doubt, my favorite beer in the world is Pilsner Urquell. And that tells you a lot about my preferences.

Sure, I enjoy Belgians, double-secret-probation stouts, and hopped-to-bejeezus IPAs as well. They can be very interesting. But when no one else is around and I reach for a beer, if left to my own devices, I tend to gravitate toward simple, clean but far from insipid styles like Czech pilsners. Subtle and quaffable. ‘Nuff said.

Pilsner Urquell typifies these qualities. The clean, light backdrop lets the Saaz hops present flavors and aromas that are just present enough, but not overbearing. “Hodo-hodo” is the term in Japanese. Just enough – not too much.

I don’t always drink beer. In fact, I usually drink sake. And my preferences are of the same vein. In other words, I find aged sake, nama-zake, muroka nama genshu (read: the 2×4-upside-the-head of sake) intense yamahai sake, and other less orthodox styles to be fascinating. I never pass on tasting something, no matter how much funk may have overcome it – or be designed into it. They are all interesting, and almost all enjoyable, and all have their time and place.

But when no one else is around, and I want to quaff as I am wont to do, I reach for simple, subtle, hodo-hodo sake – like Koro.

Fortunately, there are many, many sake like Koro out there. So on any given day my options abound! And in truth, I do not drink Koro that often. But I single it out as it is made using Yeast Number Nine. In fact, the folks at Koro created Yeast Number Nine, or at least first isolated it. And they brew their sake to exemplify all that Nine can be.

I have written about Yeast No. 9 fairly recently in this blog; my point today is that Koro is to sake what Pilsner Urquell is to beer. Everything I said about P.U. applies to Koro: simple, subtle, sippable, yet refined and exquisitely balanced. “Separated at birth,” so to speak. And, they were recently sighted together, a very rare occurrence, at a San Francisco establishment.

Neither stayed around very long, as you might imagine, but I did manage to get a rare shot of them together. They tend to hang in different circles, so it might be a while before we see them together again. Except at my house, that is.

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Announcing the 10th
Sake Professional Course
to be held in Tokyo Japan, January 21 – 25, 2012

From Monday, January 21, until Friday January 25, 2013, I will hold the 10th Japan-based Sake Professional Course in Tokyo, with a side trip to the Kyoto-Osaka-Kobe region. This is it: the most important thing I do all year, and beyond any doubt the best opportunity on the planet to learn about sake.e” No Sake Stone Remains Left Unturned” is the motto, and “exceed expectations in that” is my goal. If you want to learn all you need to know about sake to function consummately as a sake professional at work, or if you are simply a sake lover with an insatiable appetite for sake-related knowledge, then this is the course for you. The course is recognized by the Sake Education Council, and those that complete it will be qualified to take the exam for Certified Sake Specialist, which will be offered on the evening of the last day of the course. Go here for more information. To reserve a spot, send an email to sakeguy@gol.com .

Testimonials

SPC Learning Online Testimonials

(Certified Sake Professional Course)

I just completed the Level 1, Sake Professional Course Online with John Gauntner. This is the second time I have taken the SPC Level 1. I completed my first one in-person in Tokyo, and when I saw that John was offering the Level 1 online as a refresher course for alumni, I jumped at the chance!

Not only is John one of the most knowledgeable people in the sake world, his industry insight, and stories from the sake world, make the course one of the most enjoyable things I have done. You will not be disappointed and John’s motto, “no sake stone left unturned” is an understatement!! You will learn more than you ever thought you could about sake. Plus, John’s guided tasting will help you gain a new appreciation for Japan’s traditional, alcoholic beverage. Highly recommended.

Chris – Okinawa, Japan, October 2021

John Gauntner’s Sake Professional course was the third Sake educational program I had taken and by far was the most enjoyable and comprehensive. As a advisory teacher for the UK government for many years I have an extensive background in education and am probably not the easiest of students as I really want the content to be comprehensive, engaging and relevant. John delivered all of that and more!

His easy warm style of coaching enabled us all to freely discuss anything we were unsure of, he answered queries expertly and with grace, his obvious passion and knowledge enthused my learning and the lengthy lectures whizzed by so enjoyably that I was always surprised when they ended. The course book is comprehensive and the online exam covered the materials in detail.

John is a community builder, his compassionate style of delivery and respect for all the artisan makers and lovers of Sake means he has the deepest admiration from all who come into contact with him, anyone who wants to really delve into the world of Sake needs to do this course (whilst having a glass of Sake on hand of course!)

Marion Titmuss (October 2021)

John Gauntner’s Certified Sake Professional course is an incredible immersion into an awesome topic. Sake. Between an engaging dialogue and open communication of ideas and themes that flow around sake, I never felt any pretense and had a lot of fun while learning an immense amount of information. The class is concise and organized, but not stuffy and flows in an obvious manner that is explained thoroughly. Mr. Gautner truly is the sake evangelist and his passion can be seen in the many jaunts down geeky/informational rabbit holes that add nuance and specialness to the course as a whole. Thank you for being you John!

Zachary Geerson

John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course Level 1 is an amazing resource for anyone looking to improve their sake knowledge. I highly recommend it to anyone working with Sake, whether selling, recommending, or promoting, the knowledge gained and connections made are incredibly valuable. The world of sake is often opaque and indirect, but with the guidance of John Gautner you are able to appreciate, understand, and further your knowledge in a way that is simply not possible even with years of self study. Highly recommended!

Austin

Essential not only for detail-oriented professionals but also very importantly for enthusiasts of Japanese culture—vividly rendered anecdotes and authoritative technical info, blended with affable style by John Gauntner—this is a broad and deep tour through regions, craft, and flavors.

—Balazs Bognar, architect and Partner at Kengo Kuma & Associates

I’m really so glad that I’ve taken John Gauntner’s Online Sake Professional Course. The course was very well-structured and balanced, covering pretty much everything one needs to know about Sake, including the current situation of the industry.

Elisabeth Llopis

I have been going to Japan annually since 2013. Sake was offered by many Japanese friends. Even though I own cocktail bars , I know very little about it. Covid-19 has halted all travels, but I was able to find John’s class online. After I obtained my CSP (Certified Sake Professional), I can say the course has exceeded my expectations. In one month, it is true that “No sake stone remains left unturned”. John laid out the fundamentals and roadmaps of sake for this introductory course. It does not mean it is easy. Some topics are quite challenging if you are not prepared.

I wish to continue my learning of sake. John would be my first choice for future studies.

Ethan, Victoria Canada (April 2021)

As a complete novice of not just Sake but the beverages industry in general, I was unsure if I could follow this course’s content. However, John did such a good job in explaining the material in a simple and concise manner that my worries turned into a fascination with the world of Sake by the end of the first lesson. The course is structured logically and John manages to give in-depth information about Sake through lessons that are engaging even through Zoom. Even though I joined with little prior knowledge, I could confidently say that I know enough about Sake to amaze my Japanese friends by the end of the course!

Cem Ertul

I thoroughly enjoyed the online Sake Professional Course. John’s knowledge of the topic and passion for it was evident. The lectures were very engaging. I haven’t heard someone talk about a subject with such ease and depth of knowledge in a long time. The technical aspects were explained extremely well, and the stories one only gains from years in the industry were very interesting, too. He was also exceedingly generous with his time in answering everyone’s questions. I would highly recommend this course and I look forward to taking the Advanced Sake Professional course in the future.

N. Peppler
May 2021

I am a Japanese native certified sake sommelier and have been educating sake for the past 5 years in the US. I took this class because I wanted to learn how I can explain “everything sake” better in English. If I were investing my time and money, I wanted to learn from the best and I am so glad I made the right decision. John has more than 30 years of experience in the sake industry, from introducing sake overseas, publishing the most comprehensive sake book in English, to being the first and only non-Japanese judge for Zenkoku Shinshu Kamoyoukai aka Japan Sake Awards. In this course, John has truly demonstrated his deep understanding of Japanese culture and sake tradition in western perspectives.

If you are really serious about learning sake to the next level, I would highly recommend John’s Sake Professional Course. It is not only extremely informative but also very fun and fascinating. John answered all of the detailed questions that I was never able to find an answer for. Now I am able to explain complex sake concepts in a much simpler way to my customers. His materials are well-organized and easy to follow. A virtual session worked well for me because if you missed any points, a recorded session was available for review. I can’t wait to take the in person tasting and brewery tour with John once available!

Ayaka Ito

Participating in the sake professional course was enjoyable and incredibly educational. The instructor, John Gauntner, was engaging as he drew upon his decades of personal experience to cover each aspect of the sake brewing process, varieties of sake, sake culture, and the current state of the industry. The pacing allowed students of varying backgrounds and interests to understand the material clearly, and the certification test was comprehensive without being overly stressful. I know I will continue to find the information useful, and I look forward to expanding my sake-related knowledge through the resources available via the Sake Education Council.

-Douglas Wagner
Asian Art Department, Denver Art Museum

If you are already aware of John Gauntner, there is no introduction needed and everything you expected and more will be learned throughout the first segment of the Sake Professional Course. For those still learning what junmai means, no worries, the course is also designed with you in mind. John provides a structured course exploring the history, processes, and nuances of sake. By the end, you will have a solid understanding of what sake is literally, historically, and culturally. If you are in the US, John has made it easy to at least procure sake for tasting. If not, he still provides a detailed list to procure the types of sake needed. The course has broken down the fundamental of tasting sake and provides a fantastic guide on the main characteristics. As someone who was familiar drinking sake, I came out having a higher level of clarity on what sake can taste like and a curiosity for what is out there.

Throughout the whole course and even before it started, John is readily available and will help you with any questions or concerns. Alongside all the information, you have an individual who has been part of the industry. Someone who can provide the insight of the what sake is and what it used to be. Again, the course is for anyone. From someone who wants to confirm their knowledge and experience to a newbie to the scene, John is there along the way to answer questions and share his experience. The only thing I regret is not taking course and drinking more sake.

Michael Kim

Highly recommend it to anyone who wants to start a career in the sake industry. Took the course in the most unfavorable time (Sat Sun 3am to 6 am) but I was never tired. John is an amazing teacher. His explanations stick to your mind. He is clever and accessible, some of the most important things for someone who decides to teach. His approach on sake and the sake industry is based on real experiences. Due to this, he could tell us so many stories. In the end, I felt like I as part of all of them. His selection of sakes is a plus. It is kind of a reference list you will have to follow your studies on sake. At the end, I was feeling ready to start working and, at same time, dive deeper in the sake world. I am glad to have taken this course and l will take the advanced level as soon as my economic condition permits.

Roberto Maxwell

I was motivated to take the Sake Professional Certification Course after hearing John Gauntner speak as part of the Japan Information & Cultural Center Virtual Lectures in their 2020 Guormet Series hosted by the Embassy of Japan. John is passionate about sake and eager to share his experience and knowledge on the subject. The course was fast paced and filled with a lot of useful information about the industry and its impressive history. It was a great experience that I would highly recommend, even for someone outside of the industry, like myself. The course was well planned, well delivered, and affordable. Kanpai!

Gordon Morris – Washington

SPC LO-4 was an extremely friendly and cordial webinar. I did know his in-depth knowledge about the Sake world through the past email letters and the books, however, the SPC Live Online was a truly different amazing world!!! John Gauntner’s passion for Sake and the eagerness of other participants inspired me to further efforts to deepen and expand my knowledge of Sake in English. I’m happy to complete this online course, especially as a qualified tour guide.

I’d like to recommend this course to all the Japanese who are engaged in the Sake Brewery Tourism. This would be the only opportunity to learn about Sake in detail, in English. I believe his enthusiastic, thoughtful lecture was an impressive testament to his love for Sake.

Thank you, John！I will continue to study, review and apply the materials.

Emiko Murayama, Tochigi, Japan. (May 2021)

Testimonial: John’s knowledge and most importantly, ability to share that knowledge in a digestible and easy to understand manner, is tremendous. His experience and resume speak for itself but having experienced his method of teaching and passion for sake first-hand has confirmed how great this course is for me. Especially being online, I had lower expectations than an in-person session but the online system is smooth, easy, and we had no hiccups. I learned a ton, feel like my passion and interest for sake has increased 10x and I can’t wait to keep the journey going. Thanks John for taking the time and effort into building the material and for being so open for any questions or concerns during this process and these times.

Brice Burman

I had the honor of taking the Sake Professional Course with Sensei John Gauntner right after passing WSET3. I found this course extremely interactive and gained a deeper and practical appreciation of Sake making and state of the industry as a whole. Sensei John’s knowledge of various breweries and his personal connection made us aware of all the possible variations of Sake making and he instilled a sense of excitement in me to explore Sake more. The class was diverse and global and that made it super interactive as well. Thank you Sensei you shared all your passion and knowledge and made me respect and appreciate the Art of Sake making more.

Mahesh Tirupattur

New to sake? Already a sake-professional? Or maybe you brew it yourself?

Regardless of your current relationship with sake, if you haven’t taken John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Certificate course, you are missing out, so so much.

John covers all the bases of sake making processes, terminologies, and the state of the industry, but fills each lecture with fascinating facts and anecdotes that would only be available through his long-standing and trusted relationship with sake brewers across Japan. These stories make his course unique, captivating, and priceless. For me, it was an eye-opening discovery to learn ways to broaden my sake tasting experience based on the yeast, rice types and the regionality. I deepened my appreciation for sake and the industry, but also grew even more intrigued to explore further into the world of sake. I feel that John’s SPC course gave me a solid compass to confidently navigate through and continue my exploration in the sake world.

I appreciated that this class was offered online and opened the door to over 70 sake enthusiasts from across the globe to participate, without needing to travel to Japan. Although there were missing aspects of not participating in the course in-person (John also made remarks on them periodically), for the accessibility and the quality of the content, the SPC online course is worth every penny and second. I highly recommend it so you won’t miss out on the opportunity.

Akiko Yamagami

To anyone considering taking John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course:

I am not in the industry but rather an individual who just passionately likes to drink sake and visit Japan whenever I can. So I cannot speak to whether this class would make you a better server or improve your tips as a waiter or let you win salesperson of the month awards. What I can attest to, is if you want to learn as much as possible in an entirely painless way while being constantly entertained and surprised, take this class. Teachers of John’s caliber are very few and far between. His enthusiasm for the subject is an outgrowth of his engaging and caring nature and his depth of knowledge that comes from years of experience. He truly leaves no stone alone. And his goal of wanting to exceed expectations seems a little over-the-top, no? Anyone taking this class already has high hopes to come away with a ton of knowledge. And he wants to top that? Yes he does, and he does. You might think you have a pretty good handle on the world of sake or at least some aspect of it. And yet he consistently amazed me in his ability to broaden and deepen any subject. And not in some arcane way but in a manner that solidifies and expands that base you have.

The course is clearly laid out and it flows easily and understandably from subject to subject. There is plenty of time for questions and discussion and John makes himself unbelievably available during the class. He never treated any question or statement with derision or condescension but with a camaraderie of curiosity. The supporting materials were totally helpful and easy to follow and the final test was well-written, comprehensive and fair. It had none of those jerky gotcha questions from high school. He wants to know if you absorbed the material, not if you can decode a double negative.

If you have an abiding interest in sake and want to go deeper, be entertained a few weekends a month and meet a great person, take this class.

Jeff Wilson-Charles

I wanted to increase my knowledge of sake since we have started selling it in our small restaurant. Before taking John’s Sake Professional Course Level 1 I had very little knowledge of this beverage. John has a tremendous amount of knowledge about sake and Japanese culture and presents it in a way that is easy to understand through his study guides and live presentations. I can confidently say I understand more about the industry and the complexities of sake and am interested in learning much more!

Adam Ogaard

Hands down the most informative sake course ever. If you think that you can just sit through the course and gloss over details, you’re terribly wrong. John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course is true to its motto of ‘leaving no sake stones unturned’. He really does go the extra mile and depth to impart his knowledge and wisdom on sake. So, be prepared to take lots of notes and learn from the best. Go for it!!

Sayuri Lim

I learned more in a few days with John than in a lifetime of drinking sake. Understanding the intricacies and variations in sake production methods has helped me gain a wider appreciation of the spectrum of sake flavor profiles. The class was not only educational, but highly enjoyable. The class was suitable not only for professionals in the food and beverage industry, but regular people like me who simply enjoy drinking sake.

DC Palter, Los Angeles

Thank you very much John, indeed it was a very enjoyable and enriching experience for me. I didn’t expect to learn so much about Sake and I am genuinely surprised by how well organised your material was. I especially love the way you always have the long answer and the one sentence reply to commonly asked questions and I love how your stories and personal anecdotes on the exceptions to Sake (which are so many). I walk away with my preconceived notions challenged and defeated. Well done and I look forward to when we can travel and meet again for the Advance Course!

Dan Ho

Despite this only being John’s second go at doing the Sake Level 1 online, it was an excellent experience. John’s rich knowledge of the industry shines through with every example, and the course manages a good balance between technical understanding of sake production and colorful stories that bring the industry to life. It seems like COVID has indeed also brought an opportunity to spread sake knowledge more widely through the online format.

Erica Coslor

John Gaunter is one of the most significant bridges between the English and Japanese speaking sake worlds and his course is essential for anyone with a passion for Japan’s national beverage. He communicates the essential knowledge of sake with a lifelong passion and has transitioned his in-person course into a highly effective on-line format. Even as someone who has studied extensively there was lots of new information, delivered in personal style and with a human touch. ’No Sake stone left unturned’ is certainly true; John has a rich seam of experience and anecdote that means no question goes unanswered.

Thank-you once again and I hope to meet in person sometime soon.

Edward Lynch-Bell

I took the sake professional course as a way to get in-depth knowledge of the sake industry beyond the usual historical lesson and tasting information. The course exceeded my expectations by delving into the minute details of sake production,operations of a brewery and even the chemistry behind the brew. In my opinion this is the most information one can get short of doing an apprenticeship in an actual kura.

I hope to take the level II course one day, but being Canadian, I would rather visit Japan when it is not winter.

Thank you, Merci !

Sylvain Frechette

“SPC LO is a wonderful, very informative, and interactive course, in which John engages with all the students and really does leave no stone unturned. His teaching is very knowledgeable and detailed yet he presents it all in a way that people from all sake backgrounds will understand. Having taken other Sake courses I will wholeheartedly say that this was the course in which I appreciated the most, due to the attention to detail and to the class that he gives, as well as the overall first hand experiences he passes onto the students. Also, the fact that we were able to split class into five days rather than two-and-a- half allowed me to absorb the material much better, instead of feeling crammed with time constraints. I recommend this course to both co-workers and friends that also share a love of Sake. A+! Thank you so much John!”

Jared Depry, Portland Oregon

“It has been a privilege to take the SPC LO course with John Gauntner, a true authority in the sake world. If you have a lot of questions, know that he will have all the answers. The course covers general topics about sake, as well as the fine details. I truly and highly recommend it to anyone interested in sake, from beginners like me to advanced connoisseurs, John will keep you engaged from day one until the end.”

Fabricio Romero, Mexico

“If you are looking for an inspirational voice of in-depth knowledge about the sake world in English, John Gaunter’s Sake Professional Course Live Online will disclose those hidden answers behind the rice-based brew. The beauty of this course is that you can do it in any country. That’s the power of having access to this course online! John Gauntner’s course doesn’t stick to just the textbook material, which students receive once they enroll, but his 3-hour lectures consist of real-life examples and understanding of how a sake brewer decides to brew his or her sake. The detail and focus he puts into his lectures are anything but short as nothing is left untold. The fact the conference is via Zoom means that you can participate and ask him questions directly throughout the lecture. I suggest you take John Gaunter course you will never doubt the world of Japanese sake ever again. Arigatou Gozaimasu, John!”

Sandra Gwee, Australia

“If you have any inclination to learn about Japanese sake, you need to take John’s Sake Professional Course. I completed the first fully online version in July 2020 and it exceeded my expectations by a mile. Having lived in Japan in the late ’80s-early 90s and traveled there many times, I have been drinking sake for a while and knew some of the basics. But John’s knowledge of every facet of the sake-making process, it’s history, and the state of the industry today, is truly impressive. John’s course significantly expanded my knowledge & appreciation of nihonshu.”

Rob Grenda, USA

“This course is amazing and more than I ever expected it would be. John is a dedicated teacher and I could not imagine anyone else teaching this course. In my opinion don’t ponder too much on the question “should I or should I not take this course?” Just take it: you will not regret this sake journey.”

José María García Gonzalez, USA

“I joined the first online version of the course and I was really excited. I am a sake sommelier so I had high expectations, but Mr. Gauntner exceeded them and went beyond. His extensive knowledge is inspiring. And most importantly his passion is unbelievable. I think that it’s what impressed me the most. I learned more than I thought and he revived my passion for sake even more. At the end of the course I felt humbled and inspired. I wish I could meet him, and also my ‘classmates’, soon in Japan! Kanpai and thank you so much!”

Giulia Maglio, Tokyo

“My SPC live online experience was 110% positive, and I can’t recommend this course enough to anyone wanting to expand their sake knowledge! I had completed two in- person sake courses prior to SPC (WSET level 3 and JSS’s Sake Academy), but still came
away with tons of new knowledge and insider tips from the industry that only John can provide – his level of personal experience with every facet of the sake world is unparalleled. In addition to the detailed textbook and thoroughly prepared lectures, John took dozens of questions from the group during each session — this forum to be able to ask about absolutely anything sake- related and get a thoughtful answer directly from John was an experience bar none. In fact, it might even work better virtually than in person as people seem less nervous to ask questions online! Even with seemingly straightforward queries, I was surprised by how thoughtfully John responded to each one and added his personal insight to really deepen the level of information delivered and present a new angle on many seemingly straightforward topics. If you are thinking about signing up, all I can say is to take the plunge, you will not regret it!”

Sarah Stewart UK

“John, your passion for the product shines like the North star which makes the course really quite inspiring.”

Steve Peskin, UK

“John Gauntner’s SPC LO was amazing. John is one of the most knowledgeable people I’ve met and is a great instructor! I learned so much and feel much more confident in my sake knowledge. I look forward to doing his Advanced Sake Professional course when it is
available. I’m ready to go out and spread the word to others about the greatness of sake!”

Brian Brill, USA

“It’s been a real joy taking John’s inaugural Sake Professional Course live and online these past few weeks. His knowledge is immense and his passion for sake even larger, it’s contagious. The real benefit here is that as well as all the technical data and factual information, John is able to add relevant stories and recollections from his significant exposure to all layers of the sake world.

As a participant I felt very valued and well looked after. Even though this whole thing was done remotely, you could feel the camaraderie of a bunch of sake fanatics coming together, growing in confidence and knowledge.

I would strongly recommend the course to anyone who has caught the sake bug and wants to accelerate their understanding and appetite further.”

Will Jarvis, Hong Kong

“It has been a complete joy sailing this Sake Professional Course with you – configured with professionalism, executed with ease and scripted in an extremely painless manner. You have triggered in me a lifelong commitment to promoting the word of sake globally that is for sure. Thank you!”

Yegas Naidoo, South Africa

Testimonials for John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course

(Certified Sake Professional)

“I had certain preconceptions about him and the course. I expected much from the course, and was pleasantly surprised to find that it even exceeded my expectations. John was a superb instructor and the course was wonderful, refining and expanding my existing Sake knowledge. The class was comprehensive, detailed and John added plenty of interesting anecdotes. The tastings were especially compelling, with intriguing comparison tastings that truly assisted you in understanding the complexities and differences within Sake brewing. For anyone seeking a solid and firm knowledge base of Sake, this course receives my strongest recommendation.

Richard Auffrey @ The Passionate Foodie (read more here)

“I went to New York thinking I knew a lot about sake, but after attending John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course, I realized I had barely scratched the surface. Three days and 100+ sake tastings later, I have a plethora of new knowledge and an even deeper appreciation for sake. From rice varieties to koji to the effects different water has on the final product, every aspect of sake brewing is explored. John is an excellent teacher and communicator, and truly an expert in all things sake. I highly recommend this course for anyone who has a passion for sake. I greatly appreciate the effort and heart John put into making this course a meaningful and worthwhile experience and I can’t wait to further my knowledge in Level 2!”

Karise Murayama

“The mediocre teacher tells. The good teacher explains. The superior teacher demonstrates. The great teacher inspires.” Indeed, John has inspired me throughout my journey learning about sake. Beginning with his book, “Sake’s Hidden Stories” I became fascinated with the attention to detail that goes into making excellent sake. It was a natural progression, then, for me to attend his Sake Professional course and I am so glad I did. It had everything from detailed sake brewing techniques, to extensive sake tastings, to lively discussions of all aspects of sake and the sake industry. If you are serious about sake then you don’t want to miss this course.

Michael G. Emmons, 2009 – App Apps, LLC

“In my role as Director of Education for Fedway Associates Inc., I have completed coursework from the Society of Wine Educators, the Wines and Spirit Education Trust and the Guild of the Sommelier. What do all these institutions lack? A course on sake! Thanks to John, I now have knowledge of all things sake and an incredible resource for information to share with our sales’ force and their customers. Our portfolio includes over ten breweries and sales continue to grow so the need for comprehensive information is vital. It’s not too bad to brag about passing the test either! John’s teaching style is informative and casual but the salient points are clearly
communicated and the handouts are well organized to make presentations easy to assemble. Whether you work in retail, restaurant or distribution, this class is peerless for sake education. Hope to see you in Japan for part 2!”

Gerry Peserchia, 2009 -Fedway Associates

“I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect from this course, but having sat-through as well as taught many wine courses (at all levels), I assumed it’d be similar. I was wrong! Let me explain: the primary reason I began teaching wine (and other beverage) was because, obsessed with wine, I attended many lectures, seminars, etc. Without fail, I witnessed a parade of dry-as toast, droning, wine nerds who, though profoundly knowledgeable, failed to pass ANY knowledge on to their audience. It was as if their goal was to let everyone know how much THEY knew about wine, rather than espousing the goal of passing that knowledge on and creating passion and excitement for fledgling wine folks. Having been familiar with John Gauntner’s “Sake World” for many years (Sake World is a GREAT reference for those looking for a one-source site for all things Sake), I knew that the potential certainly existed for another non-learning experience. I could not have been more wrong. John’s course was evenly-paced, intense, challenging and entertaining! He covers Sake in a “soup to nuts” fashion, without becoming mired in the minutiae (which I’m certain …and hopeful…will come with the second level). John CLEARLY demonstrated his deep level of Sake knowledge, but filtered the information in a manner that inspired, rather than intimidated, an amateur like me. Being on the wholesale side of the beverage business, my wine knowledge has only rare application in day-to-day calls. Because of John’s course, however, I’ve already found that a working knowledge of Sake has huge benefits in everyday sales conversations! So far, there is nothing I learned in John’s course that I’ve been unable to use, if needed, in the streets. For those, either in the beverage industry or aspiring to be in the industry, this course IS A “MUST”.

Tim Hirota – Southern Wine and Spirits

“If you are ready to take the next step in your fascination and love of sake the only way to go is up with John Gauntner. Consider the professional sake tasting course a graduate education as you explore the essence of sake from such an elevated perspective. This course tied in a perfect blend of understanding, appreciation and sheer fascination. Sake is indeed and art form and the professional sake tasting program provided me the proverbial ability to “pull the curtain back on the wizard” in terms of understanding the nuances and quirks that make this industry what it is. Whether you are a beginner or self-taught junky the SPC provides you the rarest of all perspectives on the inner-workings of an age-old profession that is exploding onto the global stage. John Gauntner is a once-in-a-lifetime tour guide and professor wrapped up in an enjoyable and personable package. In a word the professional sake tasting program is purely ‘enjoyable’ and an experience that will energize you for the rest of your life.”

Beau Timken, 2003 – Owner/operator of True Sake

“As a producer of an alcohol-focused, educational television program, it was imperative that I gain as much information about the subject of sake’ as possible. My initial approach to learning this art was to gain knowledge by working in a sake’ brewery in Japan for the 2009 sake’ season. Once I completed my brewing internship program, I found that I was capable of producing one style of sake. However, I was not fully educated in the variety of the many different styles, regions, history or the nuances of the business industry as a whole. After partaking in John Gauntners’ Sake’ Professional Course, where he passionately touts that “No sake’ stone left unturned” I realized he was not overstating. During this extensive and intensive course, there was truly “no Sake’ stone unturned.” I feel with this program, together with my time brewing in Japan, I am well rounded in this subject matter and find that John’s course will serve me well whether I use the knowledge for TV production, importation, sales or brewing.”

Richard Gummoe, 2009 –Executive Producer, Boy Meets Still TV

“What differentiates a great teacher from an average one is an innate and developed ability to balance fact with nuance. In his course, John displayed tremendous precision of thought supported by a nuanced and granular understanding of the global sake industry. John is a thought leader in the sake industry supported by his in-depth knowledge of the industry, access to a wide and deep network of industry professionals, and a lucid understanding of when the answer to a sake-related question is “It Depends” and when it is black and white. John’s class is a well designed thoughtful class that can serve as a solid building block for someone interested in getting involved in the sake industry.”

Akshay Shetty, 2009 – New York

“The Sake Professional Course is excellent because it covers both the theory and tasting of sake in excruciating detail. The material and class is organized very well which allowed me to dramatically increase my knowledge of sake in just 3 days of lectures. John also does a great job of injecting life into the material as well with industry stories & nuances that you would not be able to simply find in a book. One of the absolute highlights of the class is also how well the tastings are broken down. Tastings hundreds of different sakes without any organization over 3 days would just feel chaotic; however John does an excellent job of breaking them down in logical and thematic segments. This allowed me to really develop or train my palate to be able to taste everything from different rice types to regionally. If you really are interested in improved your theoretical sake knowledge and to begin learning how to taste sakes I highly recommend this class.”

Ben Neidhart

“In June of 2010 I had the distinct pleasure of taking John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Level 1 Course in San Francisco. We were promised “no sake stone left unturned,” and John-sensei more than lived up to his word. The course was a very intense 3-day journey into everything sake, from harvesting of the rice through every step of the processing, to bottling, shipping, tasting, and enjoying. Throughout the course John-sensei’s incredible in-depth knowledge and passion for the subject kept our attention and made the course interesting and exciting. The three days went by too quickly, and I was very sad when it was over. Before taking the class I had read several books about sake and had even ordered and studied John-sensei’s educational products from his Sake World web site. I wondered if I had anything else to learn that I didn’t already know. But reading and self-study only goes so far. John sensei’s insider knowledge gained from years of experience of being intimately involved in the sake industry in Japan add so much life and detail not available in any books, resulting in it being well worth the time and effort to take the Sake Professional Course. I’m hoping to take the Level 2 class when it’s offered next year. If you want to learn absolutely everything there is to know about sake, whether it be for business reasons or personal interest, I heartily recommend taking John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course. It’s time well-spent on a fascinating subject taught by the foremost authority on all things sake.”

Carl T. Geenen

The Sake Professional Course is really one of a kind. John keeps everyone engaged and excited during his talk – from one hour to up to a 5-day course. I have not seen anyone who can inspire so many people as John does with his genuine passion and knowledge. If you have even the slightest interest in sake then this course is definitely worth taking. John has contributed so much to the upward trend of sake around the globe by sharing his knowledge of sake and the industry both in Japan and abroad. Thank you, Gauntner-sensei!

Etsuko Nakamura
Founder – Sake Tours

“I took the Sake Professional Course in NYC in summer of ’09. The course was thorough and fun with many of his interesting personal experiences in the Japan’s sake world. I was amazed with not only John’s extensive knowledge of sake but also his knowledge of Japanese culture, geography and history to go along with it. (He is more Japanese than I am!) Broad selections of sake were offered for tasting in the class to understand the differences of all kinds which I have never been able to experience before. Another thing to mention was his passion of teaching. He was always attentive to anyone’s questions in very approachable and kind manner. No questions were unanswered. I enjoyed the course very much. I would strongly recommend this course to anyone who is interested in learning about sake in depth. Looking forward to taking level 2 in Japan as soon as it becomes available.”

Iori Kataoka , 2009
Shuraku Sake Bar and Bistro / Zest Japanese Cuisine, Vancouver B.C. Canada

“No sake stone left unturned is the perfect description for this course. John goes into great depth and covers all of the intricacies that make up the wonderful ambrosia that is sake. Everyone who is lucky enough to take this course will leave it feeling that they are among a handful of people in the United States and around the world that have a real understanding of all the many facets that make up sake. John keeps the material interesting for both total sake neophytes as well as those who have a more advanced understanding of sake. John’s manner is approachable and open and his teaching style is clear, and he is able to make even the most mundane facts interesting. I highly recommend this course to anyone wanting to explore the world of sake.”

Blake Spahn, 2009
CEO, Ty Ku

“John’s method of teaching both the “short answer” and the more “technically advanced” covers all ranges of people who one may be trying to educate. There is nothing in the Sake World that John does speak of. It is as comprehensive in the history, to brewing process, to culture, and to the tastings of almost 100 different Sakes that could not even imagine is paralleled. I highly recommend John’s class no matter your Sake knowledge. You will learn, be entertained, and come out with a great understanding that Sake needs to be promoted to rid of the misconceptions and to clear the mystery behind this ancient beverage.”

Avery Martin, 2009 -New York

John’s course is essential for anyone that is truly passionate about sake. It is the necessary well rounded education on a topic that appears simple yet has so many underlying complexities that are necessary to understand for true appreciation. The course simplifies complex processes and pieces things together in a very cogent way that allows even the layman the ability to wrap their head around the topic. While the course goes in depth on the brewing process what is truly fascinating are the anecdotes used and historical facts that tie the topics together and keep the subject matter fresh and relevant. I thoroughly enjoyed the class and would recommend it to anyone.”

Kirk Spahn, 2009

“The Sake Professional Course was extremely worthwhile and informative. An A to Z of sake. John is a first rate instructor; both his passion and knowledge are consistently conveyed throughout the course. The material is very well organized and approachable, yet sufficiently in depth. This is a “must attend” for anyone who wants to really understand sake.”

Andrew T. Chrisomalis, 2009

“The Sake professional Course covered all aspects of sake, from brewing to tasting and provided the context for understanding the geographic variations of sake. John Gauntner is a superb lecturer who makes the subject of sake fascinating for all.”

Mary Goetter, 2009

“I had the good fortune of taking the Sake Professionals’ Course because the distribution company that I work for had the opportunity to send 1 person to the course because of our relationship with TYKU. Before taking the course I knew nothing about sake, beyond knowing that I enjoyed drinking it. The course not only demystified sake, but in fact I now feel as if I can hold an engaging high level conversation on the subject. Being a bit of a wine geek, I appreciated the high technical level of the course, particularly in reference to the production methodology and some of the chemistry, etc. Also, because the students were generally more advanced than I in their sake studies, I very much enjoyed and appreciated the fast pace of the class. I feel I learned an incredible amount and am so excited to continue to drink sake and expand my experience with sake.”

Jordan Lari, 2009
Empire Merchants

“John Gauntner’s sake course is surely the most comprehensive available. For anyone wanting to learn everything there is to know this is the course for you!”

Brad Paddock
Rock Sake

“Just back from three days of Sake study, tastings and discussions that reinforced many points, answered numerous unanswered questions and gave plenty of fuel to help me continue to spread the love for premium sakes. John’s depth and breadth of knowledge knows no bounds and he has this uncanny ability to capture all of us from all levels and backgrounds and in a very short period of time be able speak to all on the same level. An excellent program that I wouldn’t hesitate recommending to anyone, whether an industry professional or an interested consumer who wants to fuel their sake passion!”

Patrick Ellis
Blue Note Wine & Spirits Inc.

” ***** out of five!” I laughed, I cried, I drank sake until it came out of my ears! John Gauntner’s sake professional course is unlike anything else out there, a delicious and intensely focused, yet thoroughly enjoyable exploration into the world of sake. I came away with a far deeper appreciation, not just for sake, but for Japanese culture and cuisine as well. Highly recommended.”

Todd Eng, 2007
Owner-operator of soon-to-be-opened sake pub in SF

“Thank you for your dedication to the sake world in general. I thoroughly enjoyed your class, and received great benefits from the knowledge I was able the gain through your course. I knew very little about sake starting your course but grew a “love” and appreciation for this obscure beverage. Even as I write this, I just got done tasting sake from one of our vendors, and was able to distinguish between what he was selling me and what I knew (for sure) from taking your class. In other words I was now informed and was able to make an intelligent choice based on the knowledge gleamed from your course. This course was invaluable to me. On a personal note I am able to enjoy Asian cuisine (sushi, Thai, Chinese, etc.) paired with a sake of my choice, which enhances my dining experience.”

Robert Perry
GM-Khotan at Treasure Island

“Thank you very much! I can’t tell you how much I appreciated taking your course. As I said before, I really respect your style of teaching. The manual was very thorough. Your lecture was replete with brewery stories which put the technical data in perspective. Your explanations were very clear as you guided us from simple to complex. The comparative tastings perfectly solidified my understanding of the subject matter. It’s one thing to learn about sake, it’s another to experience what was just learned. I have always taught people that the best way to learn about wine is to read and taste. I look forward to taking SPC 2. Thank you very much for allowing me to begin my journey in this wonderful world. On a side note, I have earnestly begun experimenting with non-Japanese food and sake pairings. I am enjoying the umami-to-umami (U2U) connection.”

Jonathan Davis, Las Vegas, 2009
Southern Wine and Spirits, Las Vegas

“I was exposed to premium sake 25 yrs. ago by a Japanese sushi chef, who taught me the correct way to eat and enjoy all Japanese food. He would occasionally get a bottle brought to him by someone returning from Japan. Nobu-San would share and explain what I was having but it was confusing and a little hard to understand. I now work in a wine store owned by two Master Sommeliers. We have always been a leading edge kind of store and started carrying premium sake almost ten years ago. We stumbled through learning what we could from some articles and suppliers info until we became aware of your book and subsequently your enthusiasm for sake. One of the owners has taken your course in New York and two courses in Japan; her enthusiasm has driven our sales and an ever expanding selection of sake. I attended the class with the other owner so that we could begin to keep up with Sally. The way you presented the vast array of information in a clean and logical order opened my eyes to so much I had taken for granted. Sake is liquid art and as such is very subjective, however understanding the history, materials and techniques can make for a much more gratifying experience. As the buyer for the store I now have the ability and desire to choose and present a broader and more interesting selection of sake’s and to educate and inform our customers to another interesting and exciting beverage choice. Domo! Sensei!!”

Jeff Mathews, 2009
The Boulder Wine Merchant

“The course was great! John was his usual fountain of sake knowledge when teaching. The 90 or so bottles we tasted covered a wide range of styles, rices, yeasts, ages, etc. There is certainly no better opportunity in the US to taste and evaluate such a collection with such all-star instruction. Overall it was a great experience – highly recommended for anyone interested in sake.”

Wayne Belding, 2009
The Boulder Wine Merchant

“This is an excellent and comprehensive class on sake. I don’t think there was a “stone unturned” or a question un-answered, and the tastings were some of the most thoughtful I have ever encountered in the wine/sake/beverage business. We compared rice varietals, yeast strains, regions, pressing techniques, temperature differences, and quality levels, and the sakes chosen for these tastings demonstrated the differences and made sense. John is an amazing teacher, and does a great job of explaining a very complicated beverage in understandable steps. I recommend this class to anyone interested in sake, regardless of their profession. Very inspiring and eye-opening!”

Morgan Hartman, 2009
Vine Connections LLC

”Having the unique opportunity to learn about sake from John was truly enjoyable and memorable. The amount of knowledge he has gathered over the years in a field that is not so easy to access, especially for non-Japanese, is amazing. I highly recommend taking this intense course if you are in any way interested in sake. Tastings are also very well done, always with a very specific purpose, whether to showcase regional styles, sake rice types, even serving temperatures and vessels. It was great to taste almost 100 sakes in three days, especially those that are impossible to find in the US. This enriching experience was hard to beat and I am certain my sake program with over 120 labels will immensely benefit from it.”

Dieter Xiao, 2009
General Manager, Shibuya Restaurant, MGM Grand Las Vegas

“One with the lot! John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course is the one stop, be-all and end all, look no further, insight into the world of sake. From the basics through to the nitty gritty,all points are covered and it’s one hell of a ride. During the first section of the course, each day participants are skillfully guided through the tastings and technical in the classroom, then masterfully unleashed into the world of izakayas and sake bars at night to put their newfound knowledge to the test. John is always there for you, with his limitless knowledge and unyielding passion for one of the world’s great drinks. His expertly prepared class notes, extensive tasting hints and well considered evening haunts make this course a must do for anyone who has more than passing interest in sake. The excursions into the world of sake brewing and the kura visits are worth their weight in gold, an experience you would not be able to enjoy by any other means.”

Andre Bishop, 2007
Owner, Izakaya Chuji Japanese Restaurant Chain, Melbourne, Australia

“I am the gallery manager for Lesley Kehoe Galleries, dealers in fine Japanese works of art. In January 2007 I was fortunate enough to attend the sake professional course in Tokyo. The course was a thorough and enlightened introduction to the many guises of Nihonshu. Unlike many of the attendees, I am not involved professionally in the beverage industry however this was no barrier to John presenting a clear and balanced presentation of the available information. The range of sake on tasting was extensive and represented a huge variety of styles. I came away from the course on massive high and would not hesitate in recommending this course. Become a 酒人(sake person)!!”

Trevor Fleming
Lesley Kehoe Galleries, Australia

“If you’ve been bitten by that alluring sake bug like I was ten years ago, and you want to take a deeper dive into this “drink of the gods” for your professional development or purely as a personal quest, take John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course. As an avid sake enthusiast and restaurateur, I found tremendous value in this course. Over the intensive course, John will guide you through an engaging tour of this wonderful beverage that is as complex and fascinating as wine – – from the history and tradition thousands of years old, to visits to modern day sake brewers where you will have the privilege of seeing the brewing process in action. The “classroom” education is reinforced by tastings of numerous sakes. John’s anecdotes and stories, collected over decades of his immersion in the sake world, add vivid texture to the course. And of course, it is sake after all, so your fellow classmates are pretty much guaranteed to be fun and come from a host of interesting backgrounds. If you like sake, love sake, want to learn about it for your professional or personal development, or even have a slight interest in digging deeper than admiring those beautiful labels, take the Sake Professional Course.”

Nancy Cushman, 2006
Proprietor & Sake Sommelier of O Ya Restaurant in Boston, MA

“I thought I already knew a lot about sake. I was wrong. We tasted many amazing sakes not available in Canada, and many that were brought in from Japan. Mr. Gauntner’s articulate lectures were very enjoyable, and he delighted us with many anecdotal moments from his experiences in Japan. John Gauntner’s course mantra is ‘Leave no sake stone unturned’. It was indeed enlightening to know that what I knew was the equivalent of a grain of sand’. Thanks John!”

Michael Tremblay
Event Coordinator, ki modern japanese + bar

“Considering whether to take John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course is a no brainer. When you complete the course, you’ll be a sake aficionado schooled by one of the great sake experts in the world, who’ll have personally guided you through numerous tastings and brewery tours in Japan. It’s a unique opportunity not to be missed by anyone with a keen interest in sake. John’s passion for sake is evident in his books and articles, which are wonderfully written and informative, but they’re nothing compared to being in the same room listening to this guy talk. From the basics of how sake is made, to the nitty-gritty of yeast strains, to his many enjoyable
sake anecdotes and observations, John’s enthusiasm is palpable and inspiring. It was remarkable to meet others–from different countries and walks of life–and bond via our mutual love of sake. It made me realize just how far-reaching this drink’s popularity and influence has spread outside of Japan. The course allowed me to truly understand, by seeing first-hand, the depth of tradition and care that goes into the craft of sake-making, which has only further enhanced my interest and appreciation for nihonshu.”

Elise Gee, 2006
Sake Educator

“Hiroko and I couldn’t have had a more thorough immersion in all aspects of sake than that which we experienced at with the SPC this past January in Tokyo. I can’t imagine how any course on sake could have been more comprehensive and, equally important was that the material was presented in the most articulate, easily understandable and absorbable fashion…not so easy for a subject fraught with complexity and inextricably intertwined with thousands of years of Japanese culture. This is THE definitive course of study for anyone who is passionate about sake and/or involved with serving or selling it. We cannot thank you enough for giving us
the foundation necessary to launch our shop in NYC!”

Rick Smith & Hiroko Furukawa, 2007
Sakaya…New York’s first shop specializing in sake

“What a lucky person who has the opportunity to meet the Sakeguy! John Gauntner is extremely well versed in all aspects of Nihon-shu, the national beverage of Japan. His presentations, tastings, courses, as well as books and numerous articles attest to a lifelong commitment and love of all things Sake. If you have a desire to know more about this exquisite elixir; John can de-mystify, add clarity and enhance your appreciation. He is an excellent teacher, never a dull minute, and well worth twice the price for all that is imparted in any of his educational venues. The Professional Course brings together all aspects of Sake. It is presented in a simple, logical and straightforward manner. A beginner is not befuddled, and the more seasoned Sake aficionado is not left wanting. All material is well presented, made interesting to professionals in the field and laymen alike.
I found his Level I Course to meet my needs. Being of a long-time resident of Japan, but non-fluent in Japanese, socially engaged, but not as knowledgeable about my now first preferred alcoholic beverage. I am now very comfortable hosting my Sake parties, and speaking about Sake with more authority than I had before.I most highly recommend this course to anyone having more than a passing interest in Sake as a beverage and to gain insight into one theme in the Japanese way of life.”

Mike Brenyo, D.D.S., Las Vegas 2009
Yokosuka Japan

“John’s course is a must for anyone interested in sake. I strongly suggest getting in as soon as possible because the interest in sake and John’s classes get’s bigger every year. His approach to teaching the ways of sake is down to earth and very comprehensive. I use what I have learned on a daily basis with my staff and clientele. It was an honor to be in the presence of someone so knowledgeable and so humble. It is easy to see why the Japanese sake community loves him so. I look forward to taking the advanced class in February of 2008. Thank you John for being a wonderful sensei and a hell of a guy.”

David A. Roth, 2007
General Manager Koji -Yakitori – Sake – Bar, Hartford CT.

“John Gauntner’s “Professional Sake Course” was a fabulous learning and tasting experience. His deep knowledge, passion and understanding of sake (in all its beautiful vagueness) is evident to all who take his course. John’s intention to “leave no sake stone unturned” over the three days of intensive study and tasting exceeded expectations. The sake industry, hotel and restaurant professionals in attendance conveyed to me the level of talent seeking out John’s take on the world of sake.”

Phil Heyser, Las Vegas 2009 CS, SSI

“The saki course was great and anyone who is passionate about saki or in the industry will strongly benefit from the course. Except for your books finding good solid info about saki for the English speaker can be a difficult task. The course not only sheds light on all the ins and outs of saki production from the grain to the bottle but also has numerous tastings designed between/after the lessons. We tasted over 90 sakis in three days and this really helped me open my mind to the different flavors and possibilities in the world of saki. The course itself is very well organized; you also receive a great handbook with all the info from the lessons. John is a good and patient teacher, who takes time for all students’ questions and is thorough in his explanations. If it’s saki you’re into, there is no better place to go. Kampai.”

Michael Opalenski, 2009
B. United

“In the world of sake, understanding the dynamics can seem vague and obscure. Sake, unlike other forms of alcohol, is a process that not many are capable of explaining because it is far more complex than most. John has the unique ability to uncover the veil of the sake world as he guides us through the lose translation and dimensions of the process itself. The course not only goes in depth regarding the fundamentals of sake, it also teaches you to use your senses to guide you through understanding the various types of sakes there are and the history behind them. The experience not only left no stone unturned, but generated the stepping stones I needed to become a better success at my workplace as well as build the confidence to better educate and understand a trade that I’ve grown to love. Taking this course is like traveling to a far off country to understand its culture you never come back as the same person. With that said, I look forward to experiencing taking level 2 in Japan.”

Bernadette Stanton, Las Vegas 2009
Sake specialist at Hachi, Red Rock Resort, Las Vegas

“Just wanted to let you know how fantastic I thought the Sake Professional Course was. The tastings were first-class; I’d never seen so many different types of sake all together in one place before. I didn’t expect to have so many sake to taste and study and was pleasantly surprised. The instruction was clear and easy to follow. Everything was presented in a logical order and was great for someone who knew absolutely nothing about sake. As a sommelier and bartending instructor everything I learned is really going to take my career to the next level and help me offer something totally unique to my students and clients! Thanks John! Looking forward to Level II.”

Kristy Koehler
Vancouver, Canada

“Having lived in Japan for more than 25 years I remember John’s first sake articles in the English language newspaper. Long before all the world’s information became “google-able” I patiently waited each sake article. I remember thinking, “This man is interpreting the ‘Rosetta stone’ of sake”! He is making perfect sense of the hieroglyphics on sake labels and installment after installment he is explaining the intricacies of a product whose sophistication I so appreciated, but could not easily articulate. John’s books were added to the newspaper clippings. And as I prepared to leave Japan and return to my native New York it was John’s writings that made me eager to learn even more and become part of the niche of sake lovers and sake professionals. When I heard of the Sake Professional Course I could not resist. John breathed life and a fiery passion into all the words in his articles and books. The pace of the class demanded one’s full attention. And taste buds needed to be set at Orange Alert so as not to miss the subtle nuances of the awesome selection of fine sake John prepared for us to taste. I was able to parlay 25 years of professional experience in Japan and the invaluable lessons of the Sake Professional Course to secure a wonderful job in the trade. And I refer to the text and to John whenever I have a question. In Japan they say that it is rude for a student to “praise” a teacher. So I will paraphrase a Buddhist teaching.“I rely on the teacher; the teacher relies on me” Meaning that just I relied on the excellence that I knew the teacher would bring to the course. I want John to be able to rely on me, his student to disseminate correct information and maintain the integrity, passion and joy of sake he so generously shared with all of us in his Sake Professional Course. I am forever indebted.”

Linda Noel Kawabata
USA Brand Manager Akita Sake Promotion and Export Council

“Sam Calagione, the founder of Dogfish Head Breweries once said, “The only teachers worth listening to are those who realize that you might have something to teach them, too.” John is one of these great teachers, his passion for sake is amazing and infectious, and his array of accumulated knowledge is vast. He remains approachable and open-minded which ensures that he and his students always keep learning and having fun. The best way to learn is to do; the course embodies this spirit and is not only a way to receive a formal sake education, but perhaps the only real way to receive a genuine understanding of the subject.”

Yoed Anis, June 2010
Austin Texas

“The three day Level I Sake Professional Course intensive was exactly that, intense! I had no idea there was so much depth and detail concerning the production and brewing of sake. I have been in the Food and Beverage Industry for over 10 years. I have spent most of that time in New York City and Las Vegas as a bartender, but I have never been exposed to or needed to learn about the world of Sake. I was just awarded my Certified Specialist of Spirits in July of 2009 and promoted to Master Mixologist of MGM Grand Hotel and Casino, yet still no exposure to sake, until your course. I found your understanding and depth of knowledge to be remarkable.

Likewise, your course material and approach to teaching, while probably not for the novice enthusiast, was very comprehendible for the Beverage Professional student. I found myself not only learning, but becoming excited about this new found knowledge. As we progressed through the material and days I started making the connections within the process and found myself less bogged down by the language barrier. In short, it all started making sense. I was amazed at how much knowledge could be attained in the allotted amount of time. Apart from the classroom material, I had never been exposed to the number and styles of sake in the tasting module. I appreciate the structure of the daily tasting as each one focused on a specific theme. We had geographical tasting, rice varietals tasting, quality difference tasting, and vintage tasting and as we moved through each one you not only gained appreciation for the different styles, but you also began to understand the difference and impact of each decision in the brewing process.

All together, as a professional in the industry, I found this course invaluable at increasing my knowledge and comfort with a product that up until now was completely foreign to me. I now feel effective at recommending sake to our guests and being able to decipher any sake label. I would like to thank John for his passion and tireless devotion to his craft. To openly offer your knowledge and expertise to others is a tremendously humbling gift. Repeatedly throughout the course John expressed how each of us “own him” now, but I think that is a reciprocal feeling. It is all of our responsibility to spread the knowledge and passion John has been so kind to impart and therefore he “owns” a team of ambassadors around the world. In closing, I would recommend this class to all industry professionals as well as any sake enthusiast.

Kent Bearden, CSS Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
Master Mixologist, MGM Grand Hotel

“Thanks for being the best guide possible into the realm of Sake. You are an engaging presenter and an expert from whom I learned a ton. I was a hundred percent impressed with the course experience.”

Kenneth Stutz – Piedmont, CA
Stutz Company Inc.

“I thoroughly enjoyed the Sake Professional Course with you in San Francisco, this summer. I knew that I had absorbed a great deal of information during the tastings and lectures, but was pleased with how events unfolded on my return. I arrived back to the heat of Dallas and was a guest at a going away party for one of our Aikido instructors. I was promptly given the sake menu at the sushi restaurant and admonished to pick good sake for the group! I was obviously being put on the spot (they knew where I had been!) and the pressure was on to perform. I was pleased to be able to look at the sake selection of around 10 sakes and recognize each one. I was able to answer the group’s questions and select a few bottles to meet everyone’s tastes (we decided on the Tokubetsu Junmai (high milling rate of a ginjo), the Dai Ginjo and the Nigori sake). Everyone was pleased with the selections and I left feeling that my time and money with you had been well spent. I look forward to returning to Japan and joining you for the brewery tour and level two class!”

Dr. Nick Chamberlain, June, 2010
Chamberlain Studios of Self Defense
Dallas, TX

“I participated in John Gauntner’s Sake Professional Course January 2006. In my perception, this is the best way for a non Japanese speaker to get a proper understanding of sake, and I would strongly recommend anyone with a dedicated interest in sake to take this course. It is however, important to take the whole course, including the visits to the various breweries, as this gives a broader understanding of the cultural and technical aspects of sake and sake brewing. The 5 days of which my course took place, was extremely tiring, as the day’s itinerary was packed. This is however a good thing, as I felt I did nothing but living, thinking and doing sake for 5 days.
I cannot write about this course, without mentioning the dinners which followed every day’s classes. This included everything from restaurants to Izakayas where the meals, the sake and the atmosphere were absolutely wonderful.”

Kjetil Jikiun, 2006
Head Brewer, Nogne O, Det Kompromisslose Bryggeri AS, Norway

”If you are looking to enhance your knowledge on sake and experience first hand all that you need to possibly learn and taste, this course has it all…and much more! John made sure all the critical points on sake brewing and more were extensively covered during the course and was extremely accommodating in fielding the numerous questions thrown his way. The ultimate professional!”

Les Pung
Elk Grove CA

“Everyone can learn from John’s course — from home brewers to bar managers to distributor professionals. The course is well structured and covers everything from the core basics to a detailed exploration of the production process, which is critical if you want to educate others about the intricacies of Japanese sake. Advanced topics include issues that you can find very little about, including slow brewing yeast starters, the chemistry of sake and a look at the regional variations across the country. Tasting is a key component of the course and John does
an excellent job of selecting sakes to demonstrate key points throughout the course. I wouldn’t hesitate recommending this course to anyone interested in sake. John is sincere in that he wants to create a network of people who can educate the world about sake and dispel many of the myths that have held the category from gaining widespread acceptance in the mainstream market.

Jim Andrews
Founder/CEO, Wasabe Beverages Inc

John’s course was fun and informative! He definitely knows his sake and consequently, now so do I.

Craig Dahlberg, 2009
moto-i in Minneapolis

Visiting Japan this Year? Get to Nada and Fushimi.

By John Gauntner | December 30, 2019 - 10:00 pm |December 30, 2019 Uncategorized

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The two largest sake brewing regions in Japan are also the most accessible!

When work, vacation or other travel brings you to Japan, if you are reading this newsletter, chances are you will be interested in checking out something sake related. If you are here during the brewing season in the winter, many if not most sakagura (breweries) are open to tours, although in almost all cases you would need to call ahead and make reservations and arrangements. So if you or someone you are with speaks the language, this should be no problem.

If you do not have the linguistic wherewithal, though, all is not lost. In Kobe and Kyoto there are several museums attached to sake breweries that have plenty of information in English, and have normal business hours that provide flexibility in allowing guests to drop in almost any time with no reservations.

While museums might not seem like the most sake-intensive experience you can have, these are actually quite informative, interesting and fun. So here is a quick rundown of accessible places to visit in Kobe and Kyoto.

The Nada Region of Kobe

The Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum

This museum is constructed in one of the old brewery buildings. You need to check in at the main gate. But once that trauma is over, you wander into a beautifully preserved building with a gorgeous garden at the entrance, with the ultra-modern sake brewing plant all around you. Be sure to get an explanatory brochure upon entering (available in several languages). Then, explore the self-guided tour on the first and second floor. There are, at each of perhaps eight stations, television monitors with wonderful two-minute videos showing the major steps in the brewing process, complete with old film footage. Narration is available in either Japanese or English – just select the right button. There are also extremely detailed scenes with manikins and well-preserved traditional old brewing tools that convey quite a realistic feeling of the work load of old. When you are finished, there is a small sake sample of which to partake, along with a video of how to properly taste sake.

Also, the gift shop is great, with both great sake and wonderful accoutrements on sale. All in all an excellently informative tour. If you have time for only one place, this would be it.

4-5-5 Sumiyoshi Minami-machi
Higashi Nada-ku, Kobe
TEL: 078-822-8907.
Open daily 9:30 – 4:30, closed Mondays.
Access: Five-minute walk from Hanshin Sumiyoshi Station. Fifteen-minute walk from JR Sumiyoshi Station.
Admission free.

The Kiku Masamune Sake Brewery Museum
Perhaps a ten-minute walk away, this museum was destroyed in the Great Hanshin Earthquake that devastated Kobe in 1997, and reopened in January of 1999. The gate and entrance way have been well restored to their original rustic beauty. Be sure to grab one of the lovely brochures (in English or Japanese) at the entrance when you sign in, and look for a detailed map of the breweries in Nada if you do not already have one. In the first large room is an excellent video from 1934 showing black and white brewing scenes, to vintage music. The narration is all in Japanese, but the scenery is easy enough to understand, and the accompanying music is classic. Excellent coverage of large-scale brewing back then, with dozens of men at one time mixing moto (yeast starters) or stirring vats. A small model of a Tarukaisen, the ships that went back and forth between Kobe and Edo, doing nothing but delivering casks of sake, sits near the entrance. Here there are less large brewing implements (although there are some), and more small storage vessels, like bottles and tokkuri and red, lacquered “tsuno-daru.” When you are finished, there are several sake to be sampled in the tasting and retail purchase room.

1-9-1 Uozaki Nishimachi,
Higashi Nada-ku, Kobe
TEL: 078-854-1029.
Open daily 10:00 – 4:00, closed Tuesdays.
Access: Five-minute walk from Hanshin Uozaki Station.Two-minute walk from Rokko Liner Minami Uozaki Station.
Admission free.

Sawa no Tsuru Sake Museum
A short taxi ride away is Sawa no Tsuru’s wonderfully charming museum. Originally constructed in 1978, it was totally destroyed in the Great Hanshin Earthquake. It was reconstructed as a replica of the original, and opened in March 1999. Here, you start with a short film as well, half modern reenactments and half cartoons. But it gets the point across visually. You then follow the flow of the original brewing steps in the old kura. Of particular interest are the reconstruction of the kama (rice steamer) area, and the sunken funaba (sake pressing box) area. Dozens of wooden brewing vats, lined up as they might have been long ago, convey a feeling of what it must have been like. A model of a Tarukaisen is on the second floor. Each of these ships could carry about 1000 koku, or 180 kiloliters, in small casks. That is equivalent to the yearly production of many kura today. When finished, there is a tasting room which offers only one sake for tasting, their genshu honjoz-o, but there are plenty of interesting things like pickles and snacks to purchase.

1-29-1 Oishi Minami-machi
Nada-ku, Kobe
TEL: 078-882-6777
Open daily, 10:00 – 4:00, closed Wednesdays.
Access: Fifteen-minute walk from Hanshin Oishi Station.
Admission free.

Kobe Shushinkan

And then there is Fukuju…

The Kobe Shushinkan brewery was damaged severely in the Great Hanshin Earthquake in 1997, but has done a great job of rising from the ashes. The international award-winning sake brewed by this company is called Fukuju, and it is fairly prominent and lively especially compared to other sake from Nada. Tours are available, but not on a walk-in basis. You can learn a lot more about their brewery and facilities here and you can very easily make a reservation via email here to tour the brewery. It is very worth taking the time and planning ahead, and reaching out to set up a tour.

Also, they have an extremely cool shop, with sake, sake-related vessels and really interesting trinkets (like coin purses made from old sake filtration bags), and sake-friendly nibbles. Finally, the restaurant Sakabayashi is top notch, although reservations are necessary here too.

Lastly, if you click on the “Sake Breweries” link at the top of the first link mentioned above, you can see a list of all the breweries in Nada that offer tours, as well as a cool sake-centric map of the area.

Kobe Shushinkan
1-8-17 Mikage-tsukamachi, Higashinada-ku, Kobe, Hyogo 658-0044

TEL 078-841-1121
Open Daily 10-6

There are several other museums and points of interest in Nada, both museums and restaurants. A very useful map, entitled “Sake Breweries of Nada” and shown at left, can be found here. In fact, a proper search will reveal a whole bunch of maps of Nada sake breweries. And, in fact, a plethora of Nada maps can be found here, the result of a simple search.

Fushimi Region of Kyoto

Gekkeikan Okura Memorial Hall

In Fushimi, there are almost 40 sakagura, many in one tight neighborhood worth a walk-through. But perhaps the best museum would be Gekkeikan’s Okura Memorial Hall sake museum. Arguably the most significant brewer across the history of the sake world, many of Gekkeikan’s industry firsts are on display here. There is a partially viewable mini-kura attached, and a restaurant just around the corner. It is in the opposite direction from JR Kyoto station as most of the traditional Kyoto sights, but by no means out of the way. If you go to Kyoto, at least get here.

Also, right around the corner from this is a sake café that where you can try three sake from each of the breweries in Fushimi. Called the Fushimi Yume Hyakushu, it was the original head office of the company making Gekkeikan.

Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum (Okura Memorial Hall)
A five minute walk from Chushojima station (Keihan line).
Phone No. 075-623-2056 Admission fee 300 yen (but you get a sake gift upon leaving!)
Open 9:00 – 16:30 Closed Mondays

Kizakura Kappa Country

Kizakura, also in the top five or six sake breweries in the country in terms of production, has amped up their tourist facilities with their Kizakura Kappa Country, with a restaurant, tasting room, and more – of both beer and sake.

It is a new-ish facility but it is in fact their original brewery building. You can see the brewing process here in all its largess, as well as lots of other sake-related stuff. Kizakura has always been a prolific advertiser, unlike most sake breweries, and you can see many of the advertisements they have used over the decades going back into the 50s.

And you can of course try (and buy!) their sake here. Furthermore, they also make good craft beer, and this too is available for sampling and sales at Kappa Country. The sake and beer are both more enjoyable with food, and of course there is a restaurant here as well so that you can confirm that for yourself.

By the way, a kappa is a mythical creature of dubious nature that has long been the corporate symbol for Kizakura. Learn more about kappa here.

Kizakura Kappa Country
228 Shioya-machi, Fushimi-ku, Kyoto City
Tel: 075-611-9919
Opening hours: 10am to 5pm
Closed on Mondays (unless Monday is a national holiday)

There are a few more breweries worth knowing about, and a few more sites to check out in Fushimi, and you can learn a bit about here. Of particular note is the place called Fushim Sakagura Koji, which is a indoor labyrinth of perhaps 20 restaurants and sake bars, at one of which you can order a flifght of 17 (count ‘em!) sake from Fushimi. Also of note is the sake retail shop Aburacho, which sells tons of Fushima sake, and where you can taste almost any sake from Fushimi brewers in the bar in the back. See more on that at the bottom of this guide page.

A guide to the sakagura of Fushimi can be found here, within which is a good map of those sakagura, and a veritable plethora of Fushimi maps can be found here.

If you are visiting Japan, even without a fully congealed plan, you simply must avail yourself of visiting at least the most accessible sake related places. Hopefully this guide will get you started. But remember, in many regions around Japan there are breweries open to visits – so be sure to check that out whenever you find yourself in places less accessible than Tokyo, Kobe and Kyoto.

Know more. Appreciate more.
Announcing the launch of a new sake publication, Sake Industry News, a twice-monthly newsletter covering news from within the sake industry in Japan. Learn more and read a few sample issues here.

One Part Apple to Two Parts Banana

By John Gauntner | April 13, 2019 - 1:14 pm |April 13, 2019 Uncategorized

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A proven formula for great ginjo?

What makes a good ginjo sake? In terms of the aromas and flavors, apparently it is “one part apple to two parts banana.”

Fukushima Prefecture is currently the sake-brewing region garnering the most attention, at least as far as the industry is concerned. Consumers, of course, may not have the same figures of merit as those that brew and assess sake. There are of course many very famous Fukushima sake amongst consumers as well, but when it comes to technical prowess, most consumers could care less. But the industry pays attention to that stuff, and unquestionably, Fukushima rocks.

They so rock, in fact, that they are set to win more gold medals in the National New Sake Tasting Competition than any other prefecture for the seventh year in a row. Furthermore they have reached that pinnacle nine times in the last twelve years. There are a number of reasons for this, including cooperation amongst the brewers themselves, but also support from the local prefectural government. And that support is spearheaded by Mr. Kenji Suzuki of the Technical Support Center of the Fukushima Prefecture High Tech Plaza.

A magazine called Sarai that targets middle-aged men that like to keep up on interesting things (it really is a great publication, my flippancy notwithstanding) published an issue focused on sake a few months ago. It was chock-full of articles on sake and sake brewers, and one of those was a brief article on the basics of sake assessing that included a short interview of Mr. Suzuki. In it, he gave tips on how to taste sake, and learn to taste it better.

He emphasized that the main thing is balance between the aromas and flavors. In other words, what you smell in a sake should give you an inkling of how it will taste. If there is too large of a disconnect, it might not be such a great sake, but when that gossamer thread of consistency runs perceivably through the aromas to the flavors, many people in general tend to find that appealing.

The article also described the concrete characteristics that are found in those sake that regularly do well in blind tastings. And Mr. Suzuki explained that sake that does well in such events tends to have aromas and flavors that are characterized by about twice as much isoamyl acetate as ethyl caproate.

Unappetizing as that may sound, both of those are aromatic compounds created by the yeast during fermentation. Note too that these are not limited to sake; they are found in wine and other beverages as well, at least to some degree. But they are large part of modern sake aromatic and flavor profiles. And in short, isoamyl acetate smells a lot like banana, and ethyl caproate smells a lot like apple, although it can also come across as strawberry, tropical fruit or even anise.

So a more memorable and practical way to describe ginjo and daiginjo that often win awards is “one part apple to two parts banana.”

In fact, quite a lot of research goes into these things. I recall reading somewhere that apparently there is no animal (including us, of course) that dislikes the smell of banana. (Don’t go quotin’ me on that, since I do not recall where I read it.) So we can see why that is an integral part of the aromatic profile of popular sake.

Remember that this does not apply to all sake! Ginjo and daiginjo tend to be aroma-driven, or at least, if people are paying for such sake they want aromas to be prominent. Which is fine. But such sake is not the only type of sake worth drinking, and in fact, many sake fans prefer less aromatically ostentatious sake. Pronounced aromas are not obligatory.

Bear in mind always that personal preference always tops any other standard that may be out there. If you like it, then you like it. It doesn’t matter if it is one part apple to two parts banana, two parts apple to one part banana, or one part racoon loins to two parts cigarette butts. De gustibus non est disputandum (about taste there is no dispute).

However, in blind tastings on the ginjo and daiginjo level, results tend to favor the above-described formula. And, really, the main point here is that these things can be scientifically categorized, and this gives sake brewers a “strike zone” for which to aim, if brewing such sake is their goal.

Over time, aromatic profiles in sake – and in particular in the ginjo and daiginjo grades – tend to become more prominent, then less so, with different aromas falling in and out of popularity. But at least for lively styles of sake, “one part apple to two parts banana” seems to have maintained its appeal over the years.

Significance of Shinpaku

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Visiting Japan this Year? Get to Nada and Fushimi.

The Nada Region of Kobe

Fushimi Region of Kyoto

One Part Apple to Two Parts Banana

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